Chanel's latest fashion show was a unique and bold statement, bringing the runway to the heart of New York City's iconic subway system. Matthieu Blazy, the new showman, took the audience on a journey through the city's diverse and bustling energy, showcasing his Métiers d'Art collection. This annual event, held in a different city each year, celebrates the exceptional craftsmanship of Chanel's artisans.
The show took place on a real, decommissioned subway platform in Manhattan's Bowery station, creating an unexpected and memorable experience. Guests were treated to a surprise as they descended into the platform, where they found themselves in a space resembling a subway station, complete with tiled walls, turnstiles, and a newsstand. But the real magic happened when the models emerged from the train cars, strolling the platform with a mix of styles and personalities.
The collection was inspired by the everyday commuters of New York City, blending different ages and types into a unique mashup of styles from the 1920s onward. Blazy's show notes emphasized the idea that the New York subway is a place of inclusivity and diverse encounters, a 'clash of pop archetypes.' The models, dressed in classic Chanel suits, tweed coats, flowing black capes, and brightly patterned skirts, embodied this spirit, showcasing the craftsmanship and attention to detail that Chanel is renowned for.
The show's setting and theme were a stark contrast to the last Métiers d'Art collection in New York in 2018, when Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Egyptian Temple of Dendur at the Metropolitan Museum of Art into a luxurious mini-Met Gala. Blazy's interpretation, however, felt fresh and relatable, as it captured the essence of the city's diverse and dynamic population.
The audience, including celebrities like A$AP Rocky, Tilda Swinton, and Kristen Stewart, was captivated by the show's emotional impact. Stewart, in particular, expressed a deep connection to the collection, describing it as a 'flurry of fleeting caught moments.' The show's unique setting and theme, inspired by the city's subway system, created a sense of authenticity and realness, even though it was an artifice.
To further enhance the experience, Chanel produced its own 'newspaper,' La Gazette, featuring articles and interviews. An interview with Blazy revealed that the collection was partly inspired by Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel's visit to New York in 1931, and he praised the subway as 'the vortex of the city,' connecting everything.
